Misfits.

No not those useless super powered vagabonds on E4.
these horror punk kings forming in 1977 are one of the bands that I have enjoyed since a young age, sat in my bedroom giving myself a crash course in all things punk at the age of 11. So obviously the announcement of the Supreme Misfits drop hit me and put me in two minds.

Looking at the PCL (power, corruption, lies) release, there was a huge hype around the floral hoody which features the album artwork from New Orders 1983 album: Power, corruption and Lies. The problem was no one who bought the release really got the reference, bar a select few. Then came the re-sales all those skinny little white kids wondering why it "didn't suit" them. Perhaps they should have thought about it before buying what they saw as just another supreme floral.
I did commend Supreme in an earlier post for being an extremely diverse, yet thorough representation of counter culture but does this excuse it? I'm not sure that New Order really constitutes or embodies counter culture in the same way Futura 2000, Bad Brains or Public Enemy do. Even if the glove did fit it is abit like placing A Bathing Ape G-Shock on my Great Nans wrist. Perharps a more modern and fitting brand would have been a better call. But we'll never know, and with how nice the chukkas were its also not worth worrying about.

The misfits.
The questionablity of age is also present with The Misfits, being older than PCL. Comparatively speaking Supreme do seem like a more fitting collaborator given the history of the brand.
It goes without saying this release was far from groundbreaking. In fact given the amount of Misfits Merch floating around and the likeness to SSUR's Misfits inspired cap. This was also an extremely safe option given the impact of street goth slowly falling from high end fashion and slowly seeping dowards to more accessible items.

This posts back and forth approach means you probably don't need this conclusion. However both releases I am completely unsure about but leading strongly towards the Misfits release, for personal reasons alone. But with roughly £75 resale on the tee shirts its unlikely I'll be jumping at the chance to buy what is essentially high quality band merch.

Stussy...

STUSSY

It is time for Generic to expand, with the mass of my coursework projects out of the way I now have more time for the blog. One of the things I want to achieve in the next few months is to have something preferably an article discussing most brands work for both reference and accessibility. So I decided to start big with, arguably, the godfather of OG streetwear Stussy. So I went and asked the person I know knows much more than most and certainly more than me. so here is brief overview of stussy courtesy or James "Jam Jam" Watkins:

"So I've been asked to write an article on Stussy for Josh’s blog and of course I was pretty honoured, as I don’t really consider myself as being particularly up to date with current streetwear trends etc.  But the reason he gave for me doing it was that I knew more of the back-story and history. And I suppose over the last few years of having been into streetwear, Stussy have been the brand that I will consciously have checked upon. The very mention of the name Stussy, the original brand that kick-started the streetwear trends and culture that are booming today will be, as of March 2013 into their 33^rd year, an amazing achievement for a company that have had to adapt to a very difficult market. In March of 1980 a young surfer by the name of Shawn Stussy decided that surfing was his true passion and he decided to brand his signature all over the boards he was making and to get the company and his namesake out there he would print graphic tee’s with said brand name. Summers spent surfing and winters spent skiing is how he met company co-founder and public accountant Frank Sinatra Jr. (Not in any way related to the singer!) Frank could see that this was a brand that would have authenticity, raw artistic talent and totally original character and in 1984 they set-up Stussy Inc.  He viewed the people within his company as a ‘tribe’ a family as such; he also had some people working for him that would go on to create their own streetwear brands such as:

 James Jebbia - Founder of Union; Founder of Supreme

Eddie Cruz - Manager at Union; Founder of Undefeated

Keith Hufnagel - Stüssy Skateboarding Team Rider; Founder of HUF

These people have now forged their own particular style and judging by the companies they started and founded, have made their own splash in the streetwear world. In 1991 they opened their first boutique shop in New York’s trendy Soho area, no one involved in the company quite realized what this had started and what it would later turn out to be.

So from ’91 onwards the company were doing very well, sales were on the up, the designs were still as fresh and inspiring as ever. Many stores have opened since the boutique in ’91, there are now altogether 15 stores (otherwise known as chapters), not all based in the U.S. either, he went international with stores in Milan, Madrid, Tokyo, Amsterdam, Hong Kong, Seoul  and Kuala Lumpur. He took over the world and it all really stems back to him scribbling his signature on his first surfboard. In this part of the article I want to really go into a bit more depth as to why I think Stussy is the best in this business and why it will still be the best. For starters the list of companies that they have collaborated with over the years; Nike (this is in itself an depth list that I shall touch on later), Converse, Vans, BAPE, UNDFTD, Adidas, Supreme, Parra & Carhartt. It’s also not just the other streetwear brands that the collabs have been limited to, they have worked with companies involved in the comic book industry (Marvel & Real Deal) Musicians (Bob Marley & J Dilla) and even in the world of cartoons and animation (Beavis And Butthead & John K). This is another reason what enhances and pushes them forward, sets them apart form other brands. I feel that other brands can sometimes rely on big flashy designs and bright colours that often distract from any decent design direction, all Stussy need is the signature on a tee and its near perfect and I’m not saying that Stussy haven’t used the above mentioned ideas on their tee’s and clothing in the past, but they can go back to a simple design and they are still miles ahead of the competition. The other thing that I really love about them is that they have instantly recognisable branding, the two versions of Shawn’s original signature, the double ‘s’, very reminiscent of the chanel logo, the bent crown logo, the Rastafarian Lion and the skull with the crossed surfboard and skateboard. It also goes to show that once Shawn had left in ’96 that the company was still successful and that he was happy to give more time to his family and eventually set up S/Double.

Another aspect of Stussy that I like are the adverts, below are a few of my favourite examples:

Yet again, simple designs, Shawn has taken old adverts and used his unique handwriting to make it his own. The adverts did their job, they sold t-shirts and other items of clothing and I believe it was due to the simple yet clever designs of the early ad’s. Even the more up to date advertisements for current drops are still doing their job, as is displayed in the link below:

http://www.stussy.com/nike

Simple, basic printer colours, explaining the products and giving a small history between Stussy and Nike’s past collaboration’s also educate you as to why these successful companies do so well together when they collaborate. And I think this maybe another reason why I love Stussy as much as I do, they have a great relationship with Nike, which is my favourite trainer brand. The collaborations that they have had in the past are the best collabs done by any two companies in the streetwear market, here are my favourite examples of Stussy x Nike:

Stussy X Nike Sky Force 88, amazing shoe, made even more amazing by the Stussy throw on it, particularly like the two camo variants.

Stussy X Nike Dunk World Tour, a stable classic here for Nike, which is given a few touched which yet again separates it from anything anyone else was doing, the green/red and purple/black/silver are the best colourways.

Stussy X NikeNike Court Force XXV, Wow, that’s all I can say on these, wow. Absolute classic, such a good choice for Stussy to collab on, these are stone cold classics and the colours are excellent, black/white and the purple/black/white are the cherry on the top.Stussy x Nike Dunk High, very, very rare, to have such a high profile drop this early on (2001) and to have it on a premium dunk with ostrich skin on the brown variant and snake skin on the black variant, these are true marvels for any sneakerhead and street wear fanatic to own.Stussy x Nike Blaze, my favourite, in my mind it really doesn’t get better than these, amazing, unusual and a unique choice of colourways (either the midnight navy with turbo pink swoosh or cool grey with emerald green swoosh) Stone cold classic. They’re literally second to the Tiff dunks and anybody who knows me, knows that they are my holy grail!

 That’s all I can really express about Stussy, there are only so many ways that I can really put it, but you’ll find the same with any fan, or fanatic, or connoisseur for Stussy if you ask them the question:

Why do you like Stussy?

And they’ll simply reply, Just cus!"

So there we have it james' insightful and in depth look into stussy. Stay on it for more.

Infamous Red Box part.2

The Infamous Red Box

Part.2

Supreme:
Supreme started in 1994 with it's feet firmly anchored in the downtown New York street culture. The brand slowly began to offer a hiqher quality of clothing than that of other skate brands of the time. Which as a result of it's own efforts slowly elevated itself above other brands, quickly building itself collaborations with big brands such as Vans and The North Face and in turn gaining a reputation,respect and success.

Elevation

According to the Supreme website "Supreme grew to be the embodiment of the downtown culture, Playing an integral part in its constant regeneration. Skaters, Punks, Hip-Hop Heads -the young counter-culture at large- all gravitated towards Supreme". Now let's look at that seperately is that them  justifying their place in streetwear market? or giving a good representation of their fan base? Well it does prove them as having the right stance and audience to be streetwear and if we look at their collaberations ALL of those sections have been accounted for:

• Skaters:- The multiple Vans and Nike SB collaberations have accounted for skaters.
• Punks:- If there is any band that could've both accounted for punk culture but also offer a healthy range of designs the bad brains collaberation in 2008 ticks that box too
• "Hip-Hop Heads":- 2006's Public Enemy collaberation not only proved that hip-hop culture was an influence for supreme but proved it knew what it was doing and prove themselves as one of the most critically acclaimed streetwear brands around
• "counter-culture at large":- the only real part of counter-culture that has not been acounted for is (arguably) the heaviest in influencing streetwear: Graffiti. The collaboration with Futura 2000 has this covered too.

So in my books supreme can be called a streetwear brand as much as any other. It's heart, roots, and friends are definately in the right places. So what's my issue?

Hype. Too much of it.

As i mentioned before in the Nike SB x Heritage article Supreme (similar to obey) is having its message slowly alienated by it's affiliation with big artists, in particuluar OddFuture. On the internet it is almost impossible to see a picture of Supreme without some pre-adolescent kid, who thinks that "swag" is style, commenting with the standard "OFWGKTA!!". This is my issue, such uneducated and one dimensional views on fashion are alienating brands by association outside of the brands control. BUT there is hope yet! "OF clothing". Yes. OddFuture have released their own brand. All I can hope is that this will take the focus off Supreme and give "the kids" something new to buy into. Which won't affect the perception of culture, because in all honesty, I don't want to be grouped with little brats who spent their parents money on box logo tees and 5panels because they think a guy who calls himself wolf is a god.

Infamous Red Box Part.1

The Infamous Red Box 
Part.1

 

An explanation, an insight, and possibly enlightenment. This is going to be based on the two main Red Box Logo brands that are currently having a massive boost in exposure: Obey and Supreme. This article is not going to question whether or not either of these brands are in fact streetwear or not simply give a brief overview as to why they are in there respective reviews.

OBEY:

Production of obey clothing is possibly the most simplistic and true streetwear brand around. Although not highly influenced by fashion like other brands, Obey Clothing is based solely on the graffiti and street art of it's owner Shepard Fairey and for this reason has the full message, origin and influences of streetwear that many brands lack.

____________________________________________________________________________________

MANIFESTO 

"the OBEY campaign can be explained as an experiment in Phenomology. The first aim of Phenomology is to reawaken a sense of wonder about one's environment. The OBEY campaign attempts to stimulate curiosity and bring people to question both the campaign and their relationship with their surroundings. Because people are not used to seeing advertisements or propaganda for which the motive is not obvious, frequent and novel encounters with OBEY PROPAGANDA provoke thought and possibly frustration, never the less revitalising the viewer's perception and attention to detail. To catalyse a thoughtful dialogue deconstructing the process of image absorption is the ultimate goal. All in the name and fun and observation. The medium is the message."
____________________________________________________________________________________

A tag with this with this written on is included with most real pieces of obey clothing, excluding "OBEY POSSE", which has a separate message and purpose. Now what is the irony that many people will buy fake Obey tee-shirt, or simply those that do not attempt to be fakes but simply have the word "OBEY" printed on them? To put it bluntly: EXTREMELY. Especially since Obey is possibly the easiest streetwear brand to get, as it has: its own web store; high street stockists: such as Urban outfitters and some of the larger Topshop/man stores; as well as many dedicated eBay stockists that get samples from Fairey himself. But people will continue to buy into the look of music artists and those in the media and not the message by going out of their way to find fakes simply to pay less. Which is strength only strengthens the message and "phenomology" which is mentioned in the MANIFESTO. But the question I pose to you is:

Does it really strengthen the message or slowly begin to bastardise it?

Nike SB Eric Koston X Heritage

Nike SB Eric Koston X Heritage

In may whilst discussing Air Max over a cup of tea, seriously that shit happened, me and a few mates were more than curious at the new look of the Nike SBs. But are they just an attempt at cashing in at the spike in popularity of air max 90s?

This story begins in late 2007 when The Berrics was established. With Steve Berra and Eric Koston working together and making skateboarding move away from the Tony Hawk's Pro Skater confines of the 2000's. The websites popularity grew amazingly other the following years where it has become THE go to for all skateboarders.

Now if your reading this you're probably aware that Nike Air Max are pretty much the shoes of choice for Streetwear collectors and fiends alike, for example any Supreme London drop turns Peter Street into Air Max central. So it's not unusual that the new Nike SB model has been modelled on Air Max given that Koston isn't unfamiliar with streetwearhimself. He can be seen wearing a Red Box Logo 5 panel in most berrics' videos(whether supreme is street or skatewear is for another article) or wearing some nice obscure tees.

Nike may be risking putting all their eggs into one basket here. But i think these will prove popular with those who do skate as it will allow them to get thier Air Max fix without risking the Air Unit popping.

-Josh

Image: Google Images